Summer Stories: Fresh Linen
Last week Nike brought an all-time Air Force 1 back to the shelves and sneakerheads had the opportunity to welcome them back into their closets, or perhaps to the collection for the first time. The Air Force 1 ‘Linen’ returned as a part of Nike’s Cult Classics program. The program intends to be a “carefully curated lineup of iconic releases that transcend time and style.” (Nike - Cult Classics) If you took an L on the drop, you aren’t completely out of luck. Unlike in recent memory which saw every shoe reselling for double its retail tag, and grail-level shoes requiring a second mortgage to purchase, the Linen is maintaining an affordable price even on the secondary market. This is a refreshing development for a shoe of this caliber. The Linen AF1 certainly fits the grail description. Originally released in 2001 as a Japan exclusive, this pair is one of the most fabled and highly sought-after AF1s of all time. It is part of the CO.JP cast, which includes the likes of Nike Dunk Low ‘Ultraman,' Nike Dunk Low ‘Ugly Ducking Pack,’ Nike Air Force 1 'Atmos' and Nike Dunk 'Atmos Mismatched.' These historic pairs encapsulate Nike’s iconic repute. Taking a few of their pillar silhouettes and dressing them in unique yet simple colorways, Nike showcased the beauty of sneakers and created legends. Factor in the exclusive nature of these pairs and their preeminence was predestined. Today, sneakerheads benefit from countless blogs disseminating release information, and widespread resell outlets providing ease of access to sneakers after they’ve dropped. 2001 was a greatly different landscape. All of today’s modern conveniences didn’t yet exist. Nike Talk was still in its infancy and resell was primarily limited to people selling out of their collection not focused businesses. It was truly a culture of ‘if you know, you know,” and the CO.JP shoes were the pinnacle of that ecosystem. All of this vaulted the Linen AF1 into the greatest Air Force of all time conversation.
As time passed the Linen’s aura continued to increase, but as a new generation of sneakerheads began to rise the Linen seemed to be lost to history. The focus of sneaker culture had shifted away from what was hot in the 2000s. Education was required. The Linen needed to receive its due. Ronnie Fieg of Kith saw to just that. Amid the Adidas Boost revolution, in 2016 at Art Basel in Miami the Air Force 1 ‘Linen’ was retroed for the first time. It was released in conjunction with Kith’s Miami store opening and once again it took center stage. OGs smiled as a shoe they remember fondly was made more accessible stateside than ever before and newer younger sneakerheads experienced it for the first time. However, whether it was that it was only available in Miami or the trends of the day were headed in another direction the Linen failed to reach the heights that many expected it to. It sat on Kith shelves and remained in stock even after the store’s grand opening had passed. Last week on June 13th, the Linen returned in official capacity. It was available throughout the country at select Nike retailers and online via the SNKRS app. The release was met with much celebration. Finally, a chance to acquire the great Linen AF1. The coverage from blogs, YouTubers, and social media pages was fit for the legend that the sneaker is.
This widespread broadcasting rekindled the flame and fueled the hype leading to the sneaker selling out. However, with all the surrounding buzz the sneaker is only reselling for ten to fifteen dollars over retail. Indicating that those who want the shoes are getting them. A welcome sight for sneakerheads wearied from the resell wasteland that has defined the culture since the pandemic. Earlier this year the long-awaited Air Jordan 4 ‘Military Blue’ made its return. It too was eagerly hoped for and its re-release was met with much excitement. Like the Linen, it too is not fetching significant resell prices. These two sneakers have both long been heralded as historically great shoes (the Linen far outweighs the Military Blue to be clear,) both when retroed this year were met with enthusiasm, and both remain affordable on the resell market. These pairs are microcosms of the shift in sneaker culture over the past 12 months, which has seen a mass exodus of sneaker resellers from the market. Order has been restored and sneakerheads are getting sneakers again. The pandemic saw an influx of participants in sneaker culture. Of these, the majority were primarily interested in profiting off of the culture. The Last Dance documentary exposed sneakers to new audiences and they swooped in hoping to capitalize on sneakerheads’ demand for shoes. As profit margins have dried up these opportunistic buyers have abandoned sneakers for other ventures. “It’s a great time to be a sneakerhead,” is a sentiment often shared online and it could not be more accurate. If an all-time great shoe like the Air Force 1 ‘Linen’ is attainable, everything is. Don’t miss your chance to build your collection, and cop the Linens while you still can for a good price. It took fifteen years for the Linen to make a very limited return at Art Basel and another eight to receive a full retro, they may never again. In the words of Steve Miller, “Time keeps on slipping into the future,” some fresh Linens are a need, not a want as we keep moving through sneaker history.
